The nervous anticipation is something inherent to the every seasonal couture runway show, making the fashion diaspora heatedly excliam with the every model apperance. ‘Il est un génie’, they would scream on the way out to the next show.
This season, the close group of eminent designers with a new candidate for the ‘fabric maestro’ honorary rank, did not have a chance to dissapoint the public. ‘After leaving the show, I am soothed, because I know that the future of couture is in safe hands’ said Tim Blanks leaving Valentino show in Paris.
The highlights this seson would be pointed at the Chanel, Valentino and the new member of the high fashion crew – Giambattista Valli.
The last mentioned pleased the viewers with the super elegant, sexy but not overdressed silhouette, with a small touch of a Hollywood glamour. For the first couture collection, Valli was able to present an extraordinary handmade work of cocktail dress proceeding downward from a pink coral yoke to a crystal-ed black body to a hem of ostrich feather or the coat-dress in oh-so-serious gazar that dissolved from a coral bodice to a skirt in lacquered lemon blossom.
Karl Lagerfiel at the same time decided to stick to the long history of Chanel’s first apperance from the early beggining of the 30s up till the modern look with the ‘almost historycal’ femminine but straight and boxy garnments. Pier Paolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri drew the inspiration from an interesting topic of Russian women. The particular moment when they arrived to Paris in the early 20s, the culture was changing so a lot of them became artist muses due to the increadible mentality independence. The color pallette is quite dark varying from the deep purple to brown but it becomes unnoticable with the use of light fabrics such as chiffon or silk.
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